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Adhesive Removal:
To remove adhesive, a mild solvent such as Removal All can be applied to a towel. Dab gently so the solvent can break the adhesive surface then proceed to rub back and forth for final removal. Products such as XPress Wax, Velocity Glaze and Hi Tone can be used as well. This will prevent having to apply polish or wax over surface after using the solvent.
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Animal Hair:
Use a First Pass Auto Dry Blade or a latex glove can used. Glide either over surfaces - Hair should form into a pile. Vacuum as necessary.
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Bird Droppings:
Rinse surface thoroughly. Wash vehicle, then soak paper towel in cool water. Place it so it covers the entire dropping and let it soak for a few minutes. Wipe the dropping up with the wet towel and dry with a clean cloth. Be sure to wipe off gently, as the dropping can contain abrasives within, and can easily scratch surface during removal.
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Bug Removal:
In order to remove bugs, Bug Off can be spray applied and then rinsed. Wash vehicle following this. On vehicles where the paint and bumper areas are in good shape, rinse surface, then spray a diluted solution of 3 to 1 of. Spray from the bottom up and use a wash mitt soaked in car wash soap and gently wash. Rinse thoroughly.
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Chewing Gum:
Place ice cube over gum to freeze. Gum should then break apart. Use a terry cloth with mild brush to break apart residue that may be left.
A mild solvent such as Remove All can be applied to a brush or in some cases, a towel. Let solvent absorb and break apart material and clean as needed. Use a extractor as necessary to remove solvent completely so residue and odor will be eliminated.
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Chrome :
Some chrome is over plastic. Tap over surface to see whether it is metal or plastic.
If it is plastic, spray paint gloss over surface. Use Perfect Putty and then wax chrome with Ultra Coat Wax.
After washing chrome, you can spray glass cleaner on it and use 0000 steel wool. Rub over surface and wax with Carnauba Crème Wax. You can also use P&S glass and chrome cleaner.
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Cigarette Smoke:
See odor removal.
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Convertible Top Lint:
Use a lint brush to remove. This is a devise that can be rolled over surface via tape which will get lint to stick. Replace tape as needed.
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Convertible Windows:
Plastic convertible windows have to be cleaned and polished with extreme care and caution.
Wash gently with soap and water. Use a micro fiber towel to dry. Spray apply paint gloss and lightly use Perfect Putty to remove fallout.
Apply Ultra Coat Polish to a micro fiber towel and gently polish window. After polish dries, use a micro fiber towel to remove.
Always mention to your customer the need to place a soft towel under the convertible window before opening top to guard against plastic rubbing back and forth as this will cause scratches to plastic.
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Cosmoline :
Cosmoline removal - See container as described and follow directions.
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Crayons :
See stain removal.
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Diesel Fuel:
See odor and stain removal.
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Emblem Cleaning:
During the final detail process, to remove wax and polish quicker and without scratching, try using a towel wrapped around your detail brush. This will guard against creating dust and damaging soft paint with the bristles of an older brush. The towel around the detail brush, if just a little damp with Paint Gloss, will also absorb the dust on the wax. Often times, there is faded and scratched paint around molding and emblems. This tip should help that as well. You can also try misting a little Paint Gloss on the towel in place of the water, which will also give you a low gloss finish on some of the older and darker body side-moldings.
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Gas Odor:
See odor removal.
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Glue Removal:
To remove glue, a mild solvent such as Remove All can be applied to a towel. Dab gently so the solvent can break the surface then proceed to rub back and forth for final removal.
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Graying Molding & Trim:
In order to enhance and restore graying moldings and trim; first clean thoroughly and after drying, remove any excess polish or wax that may be within the molding or trim itself by using a solvent such as Remove All or Solvent X.
On textured moldings and trim, you can apply Restore It Black to surface. Follow instructions as noted on bottle. You can also mask off areas and use Sem's Trim Paint. Several shades are offered.
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Hazed Glass Cleaning:
Glass hazing can usually be safely removed by spraying glass cleaner and using 0000 steel wool in different directions, followed by glass cleaner which can be removed by micro fiber towels.
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Ice Cream:
See stain removal.
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Industrial Fallout:
If fallout is on paint, it will also be on the windows.
After the vehicle has been washed and dried and is cool to the touch, spray apply Crystal Wash over entire vehicle. Let dry. Wash off with wash mitt soaked with soap and water then rinse surface throughly. You can also use Paint Gloss with Perfect Putty.
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Interior Water Stains:
See stain removal.
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Juice Stains:
See stain removal.
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Mildew :
See odor removal.
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Milk :
See stain removal.
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Mold :
See odor removal.
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Odor Removal:
Odor control chemicals can be some of the following to address specific situations:
- Odor Masks - These are products which introduce one odor in order to hide another. They are useful in hiding smells that will dissipate on their own.
- Encapsulants - These are agents which surround an odor source and prevent it from off gassing.
- Oxidizers - These products speed the oxidation of a compound and deplete its ability to create odors. Oxidizers are used successful, for instance, in handling skunk odors.
- Neutralizers - Neutralizers, or "paring agents" as they are sometimes called, stop odors by stopping chemical reactions. Sulfluric acid off-gases sulfur and when neutralized will stop smelling like rotten eggs.
- Absorbents - These are normally crystalline structures that attract odor molecules and trap them within their internal matrix. Activated charcoal is an absorbent.
- Bio Enzymes - Enzymes and bacteria cultures actually eat organic residues, eliminating them as an odor source. Bio-enzymes can be extremely effective in bodily waste and some food spills.
- Disinfectants - Odors caused by organic action, such as mold and mildew, can be stopped by the application of a disinfectant. Killing the organism stops it's ability to generate odors.
Follow these procedures to control odor:
1. Locate the source. A long wave ultraviolet light is almost indispensable.
2. Remove as much of the source as possible. Vacuum, scrape dried deposits and clean spots thoroughly. Urine spots will respond better if you pre-treat with an acid rinse. This is because urine, although acid when fresh, dries to an alkaline deposit. Neutralization with an acid pre-rinse will help in removing most of the spot.
3. Treat the residue. For organic odors, an enzyme product will normally eliminate any remaining contaminants. The exceptions are tobacco and mold.
Tobacco smoke is particularly difficult to remove because smoke migrates into areas which can not be cleaned without disassembling the vehicle. For this reason, you need to be able to introduce a product that will go where the tobacco smoke went.
Thermal fogging is the only method devised so far that can place chemicals exactly where the smoke went. Thermal fogging consists of pumping a chemical (usually based on highly purified kerosene) through a fogging devise. This produces a fog that is of much the same consistency and particle size as tobacco smoke.
Mold and mildew are special because of the need to treat mold and mildew smells with a disinfectant product.
Mold requires darkness, stale air, moisture and a food source.
Mold and mildew usually occur under damp carpeting and in air-conditioning systems, during periods of non-use. You will probably need to lift the carpeting to get at mold for treatment.
No matter how much you clean, bacteria and plant spores are resistant to ordinary detergents.
Odor -- Product to be used
Milk, Ice Cream -- Enzyme
Skunk -- Oxidant
Mold mildew -- Disinfectant
Tobacco smoke -- D-Limolene
Urine -- Acid then enzyme
Gas/diesel fuel -- Alkaline detergent
Another alternative - Ozone
One of the safest and most technologically advanced solutions is the use of an electronic ozone generator. In order for ozone to be an effective deodorizer, ozone must be concentrated into a potent, oxidizing gas. Clearly, the more powerful the ozone unit, the less time needed to eliminate interior odors.
Ozone is carried into the vehicle by a hose through a slightly open window. The window opening is then sealed with foam inserts, pressurizing the interior space with purifying ozone.
When ozone comes in contact with odor-producing particles and bacteria, the oxidation process occurs.
The ozone molecule is extremely reactive with microbiological and organic contaminants and upon contact, will break down the cell structure of the bacteria microbe and kills it.
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Oxidation :
Condition may be remedied by using suitable polishing materials. See the paint compounding, polishing and waxing section of the P&S Traning Manual.
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Paint Chips:
After thorough cleaning, use an artist brush with touch up paint. Make sure paint is mixed thoroughly before using. Fill chip as needed.
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Paint Overspray:
Paint overspray is airborne sprayed paint from a body shop, bridges, residential or commercial painting. This paint settles on vehicle and sticks to paint and windows.
One tool to use to remove overspray is Perfect Putty. As with any other tool in your shop, there is a correct way to use putty. A putty bar has to be kept clean at all times. If dropped on the floor, it should be thrown away because it will pick up contaminants that could damage the paint.
Before using Perfect Putty, the vehicle should be thoroughly washed and dried.
Work a 2 x 2 foot area by spray applying Paint Gloss and by keeping the putty flat to the surface by rubbing it in a overlapping motion over the lubricant. After 10-15 passes, flatten putty and fold in half inwards to keep contamination within bar. Knead frequently to bring fresh material to the surface. After overspray removal from each section, wipe area dry with a micro fiber towel being careful not to put any scratches into surface.
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Paint Sealant Removal:
To remove paint sealant:
1. Make sure vehicle is in a cool shaded area. Strong cleaners such as degreasers may fade and dull some finishes based on stripping capabilities of the product.
2. Wet down entire vehicle prior to applying a diluted solution of Blast which is a general purpose P&S cleaner.
3. Dilute 10 to 1 with water in a 5 gallon bucket (1 quart of Blast to 2.25 gallons of water.) Wash all painted surfaces with solution. Rinse thoroughly with water.
4. Dry vehicle.
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Plastic Instrument Gauges:
After repeated cleanings, the interior plastic gauges and plastic trim can become dull in appearance.
You can apply Ultra Coat Polish with a micro fiber towel and rub lightly in different directions to remove light scratches and restore clarity.
The important thing is to remove the product before it dries by using another micro fiber towel.
Rotate towel frequently to guard against build-up within towel.
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Rail Dust:
Iron particles caused by contact between railroad tracks, wheels and rail cars themselves. This metallic dust settles on the paint during transport.
Rail dust is fine iron or steel particles embedded in the paint. As the particles rust, they work their way down into the paint. Often the entry hole is smaller than the particle because it swells as it oxidizes. Removal can be difficult.
Two popular ways to remove:
Use Perfect Putty to rub and pull particles off and out of the surface. This can be successful but there is a risk of scratching the surface which will then require compounding to remove pits and scratches.
The better technique is to use Crystal Wash to chemically reduce the iron oxides. Remove rail dust completely before working on the paint. If rail dust remains on the paint, it can become embedded in the buffing pad and create further damage when you repair the paint.
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Road Tar:
To remove tar, always start with a mild solvent such as Remove All or Solvent X.
Apply solvent to towel and dab tar to start breaking it down and then gently rub back and forth to remove. Be careful of the surface you are working on. Solvents react differently on plastics than metal.
Always exercise caution. If the plastic is being disturbed when using a solvent, spray apply Paint Gloss and use Perfect Putty to remove.
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Scratches :
See Paint Compound Polishes and Waxing section in the P&S Training Manual for scratch removal.
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Scuff Marks:
Scuff marks are surface abrasions from some substance rubbing against finish and leaving residue.
Gently use a mild cleaning solvent such as Remove All, by applying on soft clean towel. Dab lightly to soften scuff and gently rub in different directions until scuff is removed. A second application may be needed on thicker scuff marks, or use a heavier solvent such as Solvent X or in extreme cases, lacquer thinner for scruff removal. Always exercise caution when using any type of solvent on plastics.
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Skunk Smell:
See odor removal.
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Spider Webbing:
Spider webbing is a condition characterized by small shallow scratches. These are usually caused by tiny abrasive dust and dirt particles that do not pre-rinse when the vehicle is washed. The result are hairline scratches. Even just by driving this can occur.
To remove spider webbing, first wash the vehicle to remove any surface soil. Use paint gloss and perfect putty to remove surface particulate matter, which may be from fallout and/or paint overspray.
Using a high speed buffer with speeds between 1000 and 1400, use a polishing foam pad and a light duty polish moving the buffer slowly and allowing it to work to remove the spider webbing. This can be followed with a dual action orbital buffer with a polishing foam pad and wax. Apply wax on pad set machine on vehicle turn on and with overlapping motion cover entire surface. Allow sufficient dry-time usually 10-15 minutes. Then use a lint-free flannel towel keeping flat to the surface and remove wax.
Do not use terry cloth towels. You will find that the wax gets removed more efficiently with flannel or micro-fiber towels and you are not dealing with the small loops which will scratch the paint by using a terry cloth towel.
The dual action random orbital buffer is an excellent tool for quick and efficient application of chemicals. These machines operate in a random motion and do not leave any swirl marks or pattern. These buffers are the safest to use and will create little or no heat, but are limited in their use. For the most part these machines are used for finishing and final step purposes only, and will not cut into or buff the surface as is sometimes necessary. They are quicker than applying the final step by hand, use less product and distribute the product very evenly over the entire surface.
Make sure to keep the surface between the pad and paint dirt and dust free.
Dust and dirt particles can be caught resulting on small fishhook shaped scratches.
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Spot Removal:
See stain removal.
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Stain Removal:
A spot is a visible defect in the appearance of a fabric, and a stain is kind of a spot. Dried gum on a floor mat is a spot. You can see it. But the gum is not a stain. Black coffee spots on beige upholstery qualify as a stain. A stain is the residue of a liquid absorbent into the fabric. You can see a coffee stain, it is not a spot. Knowing the differences between spots and stains can help you select the appropriate cleaning method for a job.
The more similar the stain remover is to the stain, the greater the likelihood of your success. If you have to remove tar from the carpet, you will have better luck removing the stain with a petroleum based product than with water. Similarly, detergent and water will clean better than petroleum solvents when coffee stains needs to be removed. The first step in stain removal involves identifying the stain and selecting the cleaner that most resembles the stain.
Three Categories of Stains:
- Food and Beverage - Colored food such as - candy, medicine and, cough syrup
- Organic/Natural Stains - Coffee, urine, mustard, curry, wine, vomit, and tea
- Petroleum - Shoe polish, make-up, lipstick, and crayons.
Clean thoroughly by extraction and then rinse. Vacuum by extractor several times and use a clean dry towel to blot. Use another towel and lay on surface so any excess moisture which will rise can dry through towel.
If you are dealing with fresh spills, clean with white absorbent materials. Cotton terry works best because of their high absorbency.
Using white towels avoids having the color bleed from the rag to the surface you are cleaning, and to see the progress you are making during the removal process.
Remove solid, built up materials with a round tablespoon, spatula or brush. Pretest all spot removal agents in an inconspicuous area. Apply several drops of solution to the stain and rub gently with a clean white towel. Watch out for color transfers. Do not overwet.
Use small amounts of cleaning agent and blot frequently. Always blot; do not rub or brush. Identify the fibre to be cleaned, this will give you some indication of it's colorfastness and, spotting chemical resistance.
Work from the outer edge of a spot toward the center to prevent rings. Treat stained area with each required spotting solution until the stain is removed.
The final step is always to rinse the area gently with water. Then absorb all remaining moisture with towels, a hair dryer, fan or open window to provide air circulation.
Be patient some stains respond slowly depending on the fabric, the dye, the age of the stain and other factors. Not all stains can be removed.
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Swirl Marks:
Swirl marks are circular scratch marks in the paint surface caused by abrasive buffing products, heavily contaminated cutting or polishing pads or poor buffing techinques.
Swirls are created when using a spin/rotary polisher to remove sanding marks, oxidation, paint defects or scratches from the paint. The swirls are put into the paint by abrasive particles in compounds and/or the surface of the buffing pad.
The amount of swirls left behind after compounding is based upon the size and hardness of the abrasive particle, the type of buffing pad and the ability of the detailer.
The most efficient way to tell if all of the swirls are gone is to limit the amount you produce. First, compound if only necessary. Products such as Finish Supreme, Light Supreme and Ultra Coat Compound can buff out scratches and partial imperfections without using an aggressive heavy duty compound.
If you have to use a compound, try it with a foam pad first, and a conventional wool pad can be used as a last resort.
When compounding, make sure you buff long enough to complete the process. Most people rush and don't do a sufficient job. The above rules apply to the polishing process as well.
Now, how can we tell if the swirls are gone?
- First, paint is best viewed in natural light or under bright halogen lights.
- Second, in a spray bottle with a 50/50 Isopropyl alcohol and water mixture, spray the surface and remove with a soft absorbent cloth. The alcohol and water mixture be removing any paint enhancers such as mineral oil, silicone or wax will give you a true picture of what the paint looks like.
- Third, observe and if swirls are still there, buff again.
Buff between 1000 and 1800 RPM.
Stay away from wool pads unless absolutely necessary. Any cutting pad and compound will create swirls.
Stay away from abrasive chemicals.
Don't skip the polishing step after compounding. Applying wax fills in the marks and does not remove these marks.
The first step in removing swirl marks is having the proper equipment. Your equipment should include tools to diagnose as well as perform the work.
Never use a white wool 4-ply yarn pad on any finish newer than 1995. They are too aggressive and create heat very quickly.
Foam pads can be used for mild cutting and for final polishing. Foam creates heat even faster than wool, but the paint is not being bombarded with constant strikes by the wool fibers. Use your foam pad at 1000 to 1500 RPM.
Make it a habit to clean your wool pads with a cleaning spur, and foam pads with a foam pad cleaning brush. Contaminant build-up in the pad is a major cause of swirl marks.
Compound products are used to aggressively remove some of the paint film. These are usually classified as "heavy", super duty cut, medium to light cut and light cut products. Check for health warnings on the product label and MSDS. Many products use crytalline silica as the main abrasive. Federal regulations require you to wear a particle or dust mask when using them.
Modern compounds utilize new families of abrasives whose particles continually break down as you buff. These products will not work satisfactorily if you use them as high RPM. They will break down quickly and go to a polishing size particle if used correctly.
Polishes or light scratch swirl removal can create even more confusion when choosing the correct product and is the one most effected by the type of pad used.
Some consider "glazes" a polish, but they simply create an optical illusion by covering up paint blemishes. Glazes wash off and then reveal the imperfections.
Don't expect a true polish to produce satisfactory results by using a wool pad.
When using a rotary/spin polisher to apply polishes and remove swirls, light scratches and other imperfections keep buffer speed below 1800. Take your time. Keep the pad fairly flat to the surface.
Waxes, sealants, paint protectants are excellent protectants. They can be hand applied but an orbital buffer with a foam bonnet or foam pad is an easier way to apply as well as bonding the product more to the surface.
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Tobacco Smoke:
See odor removal.
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Transit Coating Removal:
Transit coating - see instructions and follow accordingly.
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Tree Sap:
Tree sap or pitch needs to be removed before using Perfect Putty on vehicle. Tree Sap can easily be removed by using P&S Tree Sap Remover.
Apply to towel, and dab sap or pitch to dissolve material and then gently rub in different directions to remove. Do not spray solvent on vehicle as this can cause permanent staining.
If the sap or pitch has been on the vehicle for a long time, you may have to use a plastic razorblade or gently wet sand by using 2500 or 3000 grit paper to remove.
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Urine Stains:
See odor removal and stain removal.
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Water Spots:
A water spot is a mineral deposit that is left behind on the surface of the paint and window after the water has evaporated. A "spot" sits on top of the surface, unlike a "stain" which penetrates into the surface.
To remove water spots, refer to Rail Dust Removal section. Spots can be removed in the same manner as paint overspray.
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Water Stains:
A water stain is an actual etching of surface that penetrates the paint and windows. Keep in mind that stains can be so severe that wet sanding has to be used on the paint to remove. In extreme cases, surface may need refinishing.
Use Paint Gloss with Perfect Putty first to remove surface contamination.
Start with mild buffing and work up accordingly as needed. Refer to Paint Compounding Polishing and Waxing section of the P&S training manual.
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Wear Marks:
The appearance of Carpeted wear marks after thoroughly vacuumed, cleaned and shampooed can enhance their appearance by the use of Sem Plastic aerosol dyes. Clean and dry. See the Sem training brochure for remedies.
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Wet Sanding Marks:
Wet sand marks in most cases can be removed by using Clearcut 2 with a foam cut pad. Buff at 1500 slowly. Give the product an opportunity to work. You may need to re-apply product once more to remove sand marks. If more of an aggressive approach needs to be done, you can use a 200Y pad which is a blend of 50% wool and 50% synthetic.
There can be some cases where the paint was fresh and when wet sanding occurred, the sand marks are within the clear or paint themselves. 2000 wet sanding followed by compound and polish may be the only solution in that case. There definitely will be cases where the sand marks are part of the paint itself and cannot be removed.
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